5 Skeins (3.5 oz.) worsted weight
Knitting needles size 7 and 8 (American)
Two 1" D-rings (optional)
20 sts= 2.75 inches in cable panel
Width= 22 inches
FC: Sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front, sl next st to a 2nd cable needle and hold to back, k next 2 sts, p1 from back cn, k2 from front cn
BC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold to back, k next 2 sts, sl p st from cn and p1, k2 from cn
Trinity stitch: (multiple of 4 sts) Preparation row (wrong side): Purl
Cable Panel: (over 20 sts)
With larger needles, cast on 142 sts. Beg pats--Row 1 (WS): P1 (edge st: keep in stockinette st), work cable panel over 20 sts, [trinity st over 20 sts, capel panel over 20 sts] 3 times, p1 (edge st, keep in St st).
Continue in pattern established until piece measures 26 inches from beg or desire length. End with a WS row. (to determine size for your dog, measure from base of neck to base of tail).
Work 50 sts, join 2nd skein of yarn and bind off center 42 sts, work to end. Working both sides at once, bind off from each neck edge 9 times, AT SAME TIME, inc 1 st at each outher edge (working inc sts into St st) ever 6th row 4 times --(36) sts each side. Work even until neck depth measures 7.5 inches or desired length, end with a wrong side row. NOTE: Try on sweater before reaching 7.5 inches: work longer if necessary to make front edges almost meet (1" or less). Or, shorten front edges if necessary. Bind off 36 sts each side for front edge.
With larger needles, cast on 28 sts. Begin pats -- Row 1: (WS) P2 (stockinette sts for edge), work trinity st over 24 sts, p2. Continue in pat as established until pieve measure 16 inches from beginning, or desired length. Bind off.
With RS facing, using smaller needles, pick up on all 3 edges of body (sides and cast-on edges), 4 sts for every 5 rows, 3 sts for every 4 cast-on sts. K1 row (WS), p1 row, bindoff knitwise on last row. Work trim in the same way on 3 sides of belly band (two long sides and cast-on edge). Note: Use circular needle, or pick up along edges in three pieces and then sew together the ends. There are too many stitches to pick up in one piece as directed.
Place marker 3 inches down from front edge bind-off on each inner neck edge. With RS facing and smaller needles, begin at right marker, pick up 89 sts evenly along neck edge to other marker. Next row: Work in K1, p1 rib over 42 sts, make 5 st buttonhole at center back neck (bind off 5 sts), rib to end. In next row, cast on 5 sts opposite bound off sts. Rib until collar measures 4 inces, then bind off. Work trim on remaining neck edge not covered by collar.
FRONT EDGE BUTTONBAND:
With RS facing and smaller needles pick up 35 sts evenly spaced along right front edge. Work in K1, p1 rib for 1 inch. Bind off in rib. Work same on other side, working 3 buttonholes, evenly spaced. Sew on buttons.
Cast on 9 sts. Work in k1, p1 rib for 32 inches. Bind off. Sew center of belt to trimmed edge of belly band, along ridge formed by picked up sts. Sew untrimmed edge of belly band to the center of the bottom of the front extension, with the buttons closed. Sew D-rings on ends of belt, or use velcro, or you can tie the belt if you prefer.
Note from Ginny to the knitters: I have variously folded over the collar and tacked it in place for a very preppie button-down look. I've also made the collar a lot longer and picked it up all the way around the neck edge, and then used velcro to make a turtle neck, which can then be rolled down out of the way when not in use. Experienced knitters can adapt the collar once they see how it will turn out. The belly band is not connected to the body piece along the sides as this sweater is made. On two of them, I have used "buttons" of velcro along the edges of the belly band and on the inside bottoms of the body piece to close the sweater up for truly inclement conditions. I also lined one sweater with fake sheepskin when it was finished, but I had to borrow a friend's industrial sewing machine to do a good job on it.